Napoli Revisited

Naples, the capital city of southern Italy. Sounds nice, right? Not so much. Or at least that was my first impression when I first visited the city of vespas, pizza, and graffitti last year. Yet this city, which happens to be the birthplace of pizza, deserved a second chance. This time around, it didn't disappoint at all. The trick was to get beyond the absolutely downtrodden Piazza Girabaldi which is where the central train station is located.

Travel author Rick Steves describes Naples as intense and "Italy in the extreme". He is so right. To most American travelers who project their values on this place, this sort of place is a total turn off. Omaha, Nebraska it ain't! In Naples, you see grit everywhere. It reminded me of a scene from Backt to the Future II when Marty McFly goes to Hill Valley in the near future and finds it to be a run down slum with Biff's casino being the crowning jewel of the town. Yup, there graffitti everywhere, traffic laws are non existent, and the people are loud and passionate. Once you get past some of the high negatives, I found myself in love with this city. Yes, it was intense but it had a really cool vibe to it. I saw kids playing soccer in a piazza, I ate the most delicious pizza that cost me a whopping one euro, I drank Moretti bierre in an alley cafe as the local Neopolitans casually made their way to and fro without a care in the world. It definitely grew on me after a day or so.

While I was there I decided not to do the traditional European tourist rut of going to all of the museums and hitting up the hard rock cafe along the way. Instead I sought to blend in as much as I could. My hair was a bit longer during my trip since I'd been on the ship the previous two weeks and I was able to integrate with the local without too much effort. The fact that my looks favor my Italian side and didn't tote around my All-American looking family didn't hurt either. Within an hour or so, the locals were trying to speak Italian to me. Oddly enough I was also mistaken for a Spaniard a couple of times...that one threw me for a loop. Anyhow, I decided to let the city "wash over me" rather than go from attraction to attraction. I strolled the streets which were draped with laundry, dodged Vespa scooters driven by ten year olds, and ate the most delicious Mozerella di Buffalo cheese I've ever had.

After getting my fill of the city of Naples, I headed out to the Island of Capri. Touristy? Yes. Stil worth the trip? Absolutely. Traveling in May definitely has its advantages. The "shoulder season" promises nice termperatures and fewer crowds. This meant that the main piazza was filled with the Herbs and Mildreds from Sheyboygan, Wisconson and the rest of their tourist buddies but as soon as I got out of there, the island was not overrun at all. As a reward, I got to experience this drop dead gorgeous island without feeling like I was being crowded out (think Eiffel Tower in June or Munich's Oktoberfest). Words simply cannot do this place justice and as soon as I get my photos developed, I will post them here on the blog.

Grazzi and Ciao tutti